Watchmaking glossary that will help you better understand technical and specific terms in the world of watchmaking: An excellent starting point for exploring the fascinating world of watchmaking.
316L Steel: 316L steel, also called 316L stainless steel, is an alloy of iron and carbon frequently used in the design of watch cases, crowns and bridges. Its particularity lies in its low carbon content, which makes it resistant to corrosion and non-allergenic.
Hand: The hand is a thin piece of metal powered by the movement of the watch. It indicates the exact time by scanning the dial. Most watches have three hands: one for the hours, one for the minutes, and one for the seconds. Some more complex models, such as those with a GMT function, even have a fourth hand to indicate a second time zone.
Alternation: Alternation refers to the back and forth movement of the oscillating organ of a watch. In a mechanical watch, the balance wheel generally makes 5 vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 vibrations per hour) at a frequency of 2.5 Hz. The most precise timepieces have a balance wheel making 10 vibrations per second (i.e. 5 Hz) .
Anchor: The anchor is an internal part of the mechanical movement of a watch. It is part of the system that distributes energy to maintain regular movement. Its name comes from its shape similar to that of a boat anchor.
Antimagnetic: An antimagnetic watch is designed to resist the effects of magnetism. The most sensitive parts, such as the escapement and the balance wheel, are made of anti-magnetic alloy. In 1915, Vacheron Constantin developed the first antimagnetic wristwatch.
Balance wheel: The balance wheel, an essential element of a mechanical clock, oscillates regularly from one side to the other, allowing time to be measured precisely.
Barrel: The barrel, a component of a watch movement, stores the energy coming from the main spring and gradually releases it to power the mechanism.
Beating: Beating refers to the back and forth movement of the oscillating organ of a watch. In a mechanical watch, the balance wheel makes a certain number of beats per second.
Case: The case is the outer casing of the watch that protects the movement. It can be made of steel, gold, titanium or other materials.
Cushion Case: This type of watch case features rounded corners, giving it a cushion shape.
Buckle: The buckle is the part of the bracelet or strap that attaches around the wrist. It can be made of metal, leather or rubber.
Push Button: Push buttons are used to activate specific functions on a watch, such as the chronograph or GMT function.
Dial: The surface of the watch where the hours, minutes and seconds are displayed. The dial can come in different shapes and styles, such as analemmatic dial, 12-hour dial, 24-hour dial, moondial, and sundial.
Caliber: The internal movement of a watch, including all the mechanical parts that allow time to be measured. Each caliber is unique and may vary from one watch to another.
Fluted/Cannelure: A pattern of grooves or ridges on the case, crown or bracelet of a watch. This adds to the aesthetics and handling of the watch.
Chronometer: A watch certified “Chronometer” by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) is extremely precise and has passed rigorous precision tests. It must meet strict standards to obtain this certification.
Chronograph: A watch with a timing function, usually activated by two push buttons. It allows you to measure time intervals on demand, such as the time elapsed during a race or sporting event.
Quick Date: A feature on watches that allows you to quickly set the date without having to turn the crown multiple times. This convenient option makes adjusting the date hassle-free.
Deployant: A deployant clasp is a strap buckle that deploys to make it easier to put on and take off the watch. It provides additional comfort when putting on and taking off the watch.
DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): DLC is a coating used to improve the wear resistance and hardness of watch cases. It gives the watch a sturdy and elegant finish, while protecting against scratches and daily wear and tear.
Dauphine: The dauphine is a type of hand used on watch dials, characterized by its tapered and elegant shape. It adds a touch of sophistication to the design of the watch.
Tachymeter Scale: This scale is the most common and is often found on chronographs. Its purpose is to measure speed. Here's how it works:
Imagine that you are in a vehicle (like a car or a train).
When you pass a landmark (for example, a mile marker), start your chronograph. Stop the chronograph after having covered 1 kilometer by stopping at the next marker. The chronograph seconds hand will point to a value on the tachymeter scale. This value will indicate the actual speed of the vehicle in kilometers per hour (km/h). The most common use for this feature is to accurately calibrate your vehicle's speedometer. Indeed, car speedometers can have a margin of error compared to the actual speed. The famous Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster chronographs are equipped with this tachymeter scale, which is an integral part of their aesthetic.
Telemetric Scale: Invented in 1852, this scale makes it possible to determine the distance at which a sound phenomenon occurs. It is based on the time it will take for the emission of this sound to reach our ears. The speed of sound propagation is approximately 340 meters per second. The telemetric scale allows you to instantly read the distance at which this sound was produced based on this propagation speed.
Pulsometric Scale: This scale is used to measure heart rate.
During a given period, count the pulsations (beats) of your heart.
The pulsometer scale will tell you your heart rate in beats per minute (bpm).
Decimal Scale: This scale indicates fractions of a second on a chronograph.
It is useful for measuring very short time intervals.
Case back: The case back, located at the bottom of a watch, can be screwed, clipped or transparent. Its function is to protect the watch movement against shock and humidity while allowing observation of the mechanism.
Fuze and chain: In a mechanical movement, the fusee stores the energy coming from the barrel spring, while the chain transmits this energy to the gear train. These components are essential for the precise operation of the watch.
GMT function: A watch with GMT function displays the time in two different time zones. It is especially useful for travelers who need to track the time at home and in another country.
Finishing: Finishing refers to the surface treatment applied to the components of a watch. This may include polishing, brushing, sanding, etc. Careful finishing contributes to the aesthetics and overall quality of the watch.
Frequency: The frequency of a watch measures the number of alternations (oscillations) made by the balance per second. It is expressed in hertz (Hz) and influences the precision of the movement.
Foudroyante: The foudroyante hand is a seconds hand which performs a continuous movement without jumping. It is rare and demanding to make, but it adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to some high-end watches.
Gnomon: The gnomon is an astronomical instrument which visualizes the movements of the Sun on the celestial vault by projecting its shadow. Its simplest form is a stick planted vertically in the ground. It allows you to define parameters linked to the annual and daily path of the Sun, such as the moment of noon, the cardinal points, the solstices and the equinoxes. Today, it is used in applications involving sundials and even space exploration.
Grande Date: A watch complication that displays the date with larger numbers than a standard date. It makes it easier to read the date on the dial of a watch.
Grande Sonnerie: A rare and sophisticated complication that allows a watch to strike the exact time on demand. It is often present in fine watchmaking watches and is appreciated for its precision and elegance.
Grande Première: A central seconds hand that makes a complete revolution of the dial in one minute. It adds a touch of dynamism to the dial and allows precise reading of the seconds.
Window: An opening in the face of a watch that displays information such as the date, day of the week or month. The apertures are often arranged in a balanced manner on the dial for optimal readability.
Guilloché: A decorative pattern engraved on the dial or metal parts of a watch, made using a special machine called a guilloché machine. Guilloché adds an artistic dimension to the watch and can vary in complexity and style.
Dressing: The dressing of a watch includes all the external elements that make it up, such as the case, the dial, the hands and the bracelet. It is the visual envelope that gives the watch its style and personality.
Time: Telling the time on a watch is generally done using hands for hours, minutes and seconds. These hands move around the dial to show the exact time.
Clock: A clock is a device that measures time and displays the time. It can take different forms, such as a wall clock, a table clock or an astronomical clock.
Astronomical clock: Specially designed to follow the movements of the stars, an astronomical clock is capable of measuring time based on the positions of the stars and planets. It combines precision and fascination for the universe.
Atomic clock: The atomic clock is an extremely precise instrument. It uses the vibrations of atoms (usually cesium) to measure time with unparalleled reliability. These clocks are essential for scientific, navigation and telecommunications applications.
Seal: Essential element to preserve the integrity of a watch. This is a rubber or silicone seal, judiciously placed between the different parts of the case, to prevent water infiltration. When this seal becomes damaged, it is crucial to replace it to ensure your watch is protected against external elements such as water, dust and humidity.
Day/Night: Complication that indicates whether we are currently in the diurnal (day) or nocturnal (night) period. Some watch faces display a small window with a sun and moon for this function. Although this complication may seem superfluous, it adds a touch of poetry and elegance to a watch. However, its practical usefulness is limited unless you reside in one of the polar circles where light variations are more extreme.
Karat (K): Karat is a unit of measurement used to indicate the purity of gold in jewelry and watches. The higher the number of karats, the purer the gold. For example, 18K means the alloy contains 75% pure gold.
Mileage (Watch Mileage): The mileage of a watch refers to the total number of miles the second hand has traveled since it was manufactured. This is a measure of the wear of the watch.
Kif: Kif is a damping system used in mechanical watches to protect sensitive components from shock and vibration.
Kvartz (Quartz): Quartz is a material used in quartz watch movements. It vibrates at a constant frequency when subjected to an electric field, allowing time to be measured accurately.
Luminescence: Luminescence refers to the ability of a watch to glow in the dark. It is generally obtained using luminescent materials such as Luminova or Super-LumiNova. These substances absorb light and release it slowly, making it possible to read the time even in the dark.
Lunasion: The lunation designates the cycle of phases of the Moon, from the first crescent to the full Moon, then to the last crescent. In watchmaking, some watches also display the phases of the Moon, thus indicating the different stages of the lunation.
Bezel: The bezel is a ring-shaped part of the watch case that surrounds the glass. It can be fixed or rotating, depending on the watch model. For example, diving watches or GMT watches are often equipped with a rotating bezel. A Tudor with blue bezel is a fine example.
Automatic Winding Mechanism: An ingenious watch mechanism that winds automatically thanks to the natural movements of the wearer's wrist. It takes advantage of a rotor to store kinetic energy, which is then transferred to the mainspring. Thanks to this system, the watch operates without requiring frequent manual winding.
Manual Winding Mechanism: This type of watch movement requires regular manual winding. The wearer must turn the crown of the watch to tension the barrel spring and accumulate the energy necessary for the watch to function properly.
Quartz Movement: A precise and economical mechanism that uses a quartz crystal to generate an electrical pulse. These watches are battery powered and do not require manual winding.
Kinetic Movement: A clever hybrid movement that combines the advantages of the automatic mechanism and the quartz movement. It charges automatically through wrist movements, while using a power generator to store electricity and power the movement.
Nato Strap: A type of canvas watch strap, usually nylon, that attaches to the underside of the watch case. It is appreciated for its casual style and durability.
Gold (white, yellow, pink, red): Different shades of gold are used to make luxury watch cases. White gold is alloyed with other metals to achieve its silver color, while yellow, rose and red gold are alloys of gold with specific metals, creating varying hues.
Oscillator: The oscillator is an essential component in watches and clocks. It moves back and forth between two points, similar to the swing of a pendulum. Its role is to divide time into equal portions, thus ensuring the precision of the time display.
Clock: A small table or desk clock, often portable.
Pusher: A button on the case of a watch used to activate functions such as the chronograph.
Moon Phase: A complication that displays the phases of the moon on the watch face.
PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition): A coating used to improve the wear resistance and color of the watch case.
Stone: A gem used as a bearing in a watch movement to reduce friction.
Diving: A watch designed for scuba diving, usually waterproof and with a rotating bezel to measure dive time.
Rattrapante Pusher: An additional pusher on a chronograph watch that allows one chronograph hand to be stopped, reset and restarted independently of the other.
PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition): A coating used to improve the wear resistance and color of the watch case.
Quartz: A watch movement powered by a quartz battery. Quartz watches are precise and require little maintenance.
Annual Calendar: A complication that displays the date, day and month, automatically adjusted for months of 30 or 31 days.
Leap Year: A feature that takes leap years into account when displaying the date.
Split-seconds: The split-seconds chronograph, also called a split-seconds chronograph, is a watchmaking complication that allows two time intervals to be measured simultaneously. It has two superimposed chronograph hands: one is fixed, while the other is mobile. The split-seconds can be stopped independently to measure an intermediate time while continuing to measure the total time.
Automatic winding: Automatic winding is an ingenious mechanism that allows a watch to wind itself automatically thanks to the movements of the wearer's wrist. The energy generated by these movements is transferred to the mainspring via a rotor (or oscillating mass) which rotates freely in both directions.
Winder: The winder is the crown of the watch used to manually wind the mainspring. In addition to this function, it can also be used to set the time and date of the watch.
Rotor (or oscillating weight): The rotor is an essential part in automatic watches. Made of a heavy metal, it rotates freely in both directions. Its role is to arm the mainspring by converting the kinetic energy generated by wrist movements into potential energy stored in the spring.
Sandblasting: Surface finishing technique which consists of projecting sand or microbeads onto the case of a watch to create a matte or satin texture.
Sapphire (glass): Synthetic sapphire is used to make watch glasses. It is extremely scratch resistant and provides high optical clarity.
Hairspring: Also called a hairspring, it is a thin steel blade which oscillates in the movement of the watch. It plays a crucial role in regulating time.
Stop-seconds: A mechanism that allows you to stop the second hand (the seconds hand) to set the time with maximum precision.
Sunburst: A dial or case finish that creates a sunburst effect through concentric or radial patterns.
Swiss Made: An indication of quality for watches made in Switzerland, complying with strict production and assembly standards.
Stem: The stem of a watch is the small stem located on the side of the watch. It allows you to set the time, date and other functions.
Tachymeter: The tachymeter is a scale generally found on the dial or bezel of some chronograph watches. It allows you to measure speed based on elapsed time.
Titanium: Titanium is a material used in the manufacture of some watch cases. It is lightweight, corrosion resistant and hypoallergenic.
Tourbillon: The tourbillon is a sophisticated mechanism that compensates for the effects of gravity on the movement of the watch. It is often visible through a small rotating dial in the watch face.
Glass: The watch glass, also called watch glass, is the transparent part which allows both the indications to be read and the watch components to be protected. It can be made of acrylic glass (plexiglass), mineral glass or sapphire glass. The choice of material depends on scratch resistance and aesthetic preferences.
Vibration: Vibration refers to the back and forth movement of the oscillating organ in a watch. Measured in hertz (Hz), the frequency of vibrations determines the precision of the timepiece. The higher the frequency, the more accurate the watch.
Screws: Screws are small threaded parts used to attach different components of a watch, such as the strap, case or movement. They are essential to maintain the integrity of the watch.
Angular velocity: Angular velocity refers to how quickly a component rotates around its axis. In a watch, this may concern the rotation speed of the hands or the automatic rotor. A constant angular velocity is crucial for the proper functioning of the watch.
Window: The term “window” is synonymous with the watch glass. It protects the dial and hands from external elements. Glass panes can be made from sapphire (very durable), plexiglass (easily polished but less durable), or mineral crystal.
Steering wheel: Also called balance wheel, the steering wheel is the oscillating organ which regulates the movement of the mechanical watch. It oscillates regularly thanks to the escapement, thus ensuring the precision of the measured time.
Wristwatch: A watch worn on the wrist, usually attached by a bracelet or strap.
Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to resist water. It is measured in ATM (atmospheres) or meters. For example, a watch water resistant to 50 meters can be worn in the shower, but not for swimming.
Winding: The action of manually winding a mechanical watch by turning the crown. This allows energy to be stored in the barrel spring.
World Time: A complication that displays the time in different time zones around the world. It is useful for frequent travelers.
Wheels: The internal gears of a watch that transmit the energy of the movement of the balance wheel to the gear train, thus allowing time to be measured.
Xenon: A rare gas used in some watches to produce a bright, white light in luminous dials.
Xerography: A marking technique used to print patterns or numbers on watch faces.
Yacht Timer: A watchmaking complication that allows you to measure the time elapsed during a sailboat regatta. Ideal for synchronizing the start of a nautical race.
Zirconia: A material used for watch bezels. Zirconia is scratch resistant and provides a beautiful shiny finish.
Zero Reset: A feature that allows the second hand (seconds hand) of a chronograph to be instantly reset to zero when the reset push button is triggered.
Time Zones: The different regions of the world are divided into time zones. Watches with a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function often display several time zones.
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